How would you feel if I told you the dark spots on your face aren't permanent? There's no time like the present to say this: they're not! You may feel an odd mix of shock and skepticism, but hyperpigmentation can be treated! I wouldn't be telling you this if I didn't experience my own battle with it, but if I can find a skincare solution, so can you!
Better yet, put your faith in Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist who regularly sees patients who are dealing with dark spots among other skin issues. Here, she breaks down what causes dark spots, how you can treat them, and product recommendations to help you get started on the right foot!
What causes dark spots to appear after acne breakouts?
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Consider yourself extremely fortunate if you've never dealt with dark spots that seem to pop up after acne breakouts. It's almost as if they're a stark reminder of the pimple, whitehead, or blackhead that didn't go down without a fight. Sigh...
So, what causes those dark spots you ask? Dr. Kopelman says, "Dark spots, also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), often appear after acne breakouts because of the skin's inflammatory response. When the skin experiences inflammation, it can trigger an overproduction of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color."
Eventually, Dr. Kopelman says this melanin pools into an area it feels it has to protect. "This excess melanin accumulates in the affected area, leading to dark spots. I see this in many of my patients who have had significant acne issues and have noticed that the more inflamed the breakout, the more likely it is to leave a dark spot," she observes.
When she puts it like this, it makes dark spots seem less predatory. Maybe they're just like Anxiety in Inside Out 2, destined to protect a portion of us, despite going a little overboard.
Are dark spots permanent, or can they fade over time?
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I didn't get serious about developing a skincare regimen for my acne-prone skin until I was 23, and it's taken me 10 years to actually see a reduction in my hyperpigmentation. I used to wonder if my dark spots would ever fade, and I can guess that others have the same question.
Dr. Kopelman says, "Dark spots are not permanent and can fade over time, but this process can be slow. The duration for them to fade can vary from person to person and depends on factors like skin type, the severity of the pigmentation, and the individual's skincare routine."
My own skincare routine was trial and error for the better part of two years, and I definitely didn't start seeing results right away. I had to be consistent and patient — two things I'd never fully committed to until I decided to get serious about my skin's health. It's something that Dr. Kopelman knows is a part of the journey of reducing dark spots.
"Typically, dark spots can take several months to a few years to completely fade without treatment. I always reassure my patients that with proper care and patience, these spots will improve."
What's the worst thing one can do when treating dark spots?
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Some of us like to pretend that we're Dr. Pimple Popper at home, which can have icky results if we're trying to treat existing dark spots. "The worst thing you can do is pick at or squeeze your acne, which can exacerbate inflammation and lead to more severe hyperpigmentation or even scarring," says Dr. Kopelman.
I used to think I was minimizing breakouts by squeezing pimples, but can attest to what Dr. Kopelman says about seeing more scarring. My solution would then be to use an exfoliating cleanser like St. Ives to quickly rid my skin of the damage I'd just caused, but that never helped either.
Dr. Kopelman explains, "Using harsh, abrasive treatments can irritate the skin further and worsen dark spots. I've had patients come in with worsened conditions because they tried home remedies that were too aggressive for their skin."
This reminds me of all the homemade masks I tried that burned my skin or triggered allergic — you know what? Let's not revisit skincare mistakes.
How should people effectively treat their dark spots at home?
So, what's the best way to treat dark spots without causing unintentional damage? "Effective at-home treatments for dark spots include consistent use of sunscreen, which is crucial in preventing further darkening and aiding the skin's healing process. I also recommend topical treatments with ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) as these can help lighten dark spots over time," recommends Dr. Kopelman.
If you've been on the fence about using sunscreen consistently, take this as a sign to start. This little nugget helped transform my skin in addition to having a regular skincare regimen.
She also said, "Hydroquinone, available over-the-counter or by prescription, is another effective option, though it’s best used under the guidance of a dermatologist. Many of my patients have seen significant improvements by incorporating these treatments into their daily routines."
Is it necessary to visit a dermatologist to help minimize dark spots?
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If you can afford to, consult with a dermatologist to aid your treatment of your dark spots. "I often see patients who have tried everything at home without success, and they benefit greatly from treatments like chemical peels, laser therapy, and prescription-strength topicals that can accelerate the fading process," says Dr. Kopelman.
If I can, I try to visit a dermatologist at least once every other year to make sure my skin is on track. They're always able to see things that I can't thanks to tools they have in-office.
Is it possible to avoid dark spots?
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I know this is another question you've asked yourself because dark spots can be annoying for several reasons.
"It is possible to reduce the risk of developing dark spots by maintaining a consistent skincare routine, using sunscreen daily, and avoiding picking or squeezing pimples," Dr. Kopelman reiterates.
Also, "Treating acne promptly can minimize inflammation and the subsequent development of hyperpigmentation. I always stress the importance of prevention to my patients, as it is easier to prevent dark spots than to treat them," says Dr. Kopelman.
That's why it's so important not to skip your skincare routine if you can help it. It's repetitive, but it truly does help to wash your face daily.
Dr. Kopelman's Recommendations For Treating Dark Spots:
Sephora
Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Vitamin-C Day Serum
"Some effective products I recommend include vitamin C serums such as SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic or Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, which help brighten the skin," says Dr. Kopelman.
Sephora
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (Editor's Favorite)
"Niacinamide products like The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% are great for reducing pigmentation and controlling oil production," says Dr. Kopelman.
Target
Differin Acne Retinoid Treatment Gel
She also says, "Retinoids, whether over-the-counter like Differin Gel or prescription options, can speed up cell turnover and fade spots."
Sephora
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
"Exfoliating treatments with AHAs or BHAs, like Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, are also beneficial," she recommends.
Amazon
EltaMD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46 Sunscreen
"And of course, a broad-spectrum sunscreen like EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 is essential," she reminds.
If you need more beauty recommendations, check out the Target skincare buys two estheticians suggest!
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Header image via Ron Lach/Pexels
