Let's Settle The Lobster Roll Debate: Is Butter Or Mayo Better?
As an east coaster recently turned west coaster, I've developed some strong feelings about lobster rolls over the years. Although the origin of the lobster roll is rumored, it’s thought to trace back to the late 1920’s from a restaurant named Perry’s, in Milford, Connecticut. I should also mention that I grew up in Connecticut, so this hot take is only slightly biased from the many occasions I’ve munched on oceanside lobster rolls there. Regardless, I’ll forever stand by the fact that: Butter. Is. Better. So of COURSE the Connecticut lobster roll takes the cake. Here's why!
What are the 2 different lobster rolls?
Photo by Mahmoud Yahyaoui/PEXELS
Traditionally, the best lobster rolls are offered in Maine, Massachusetts (especially in the Cape Cod area) and Connecticut. Why is that? Well, the east coast states border the Atlantic ocean, resulting in colder water. Colder water lobsters are much sweeter in flavor that don't require much seasoning, carry more meat naturally (AKA the claws and knuckles tend to be beefier), and they are easier to cook (due to their smoother body). Spiny lobsters are the ones you see off the shore of the west coast, Caribbean, or the Gulf of Mexico.
Despite being on the same plane, the east coast states carry nuances when it comes to an OG lobster roll. Maine is best known to serve lobster rolls cold, tossed in mayo. There are several iterations of what kind of mayo mixture the lobster is dressed in, but it usually consists of traditional jarred mayonnaise, celery and/or celery seed, chives, lemon juice and/or zest, kosher salt, and freshly ground pepper.
A Connecticut-style lobster roll gears towards the warm, buttery version. And, in my ~humble opinion~, is the superior choice.
Why is a Connecticut lobster roll better?
Firstly, the Connecticut-style lobster roll recipe calls for less ingredients — only using butter, kosher salt, freshly ground pepper, chives, and scallions to garnish. This means less hassle and less food waste (maybe the person doesn’t finish the whole roll, the ingredients go bad quickly, certain parts of the vegetables or lemons aren’t used, etc.).
Secondly, to me, the combination of a warm, toasted bun and buttery lobster is comforting. Think about why you enjoy soups and stews throughout the winter —the texture and temperature of these meals act as a physical comfort food, according to a 2014 study. With the perfectly breezy east coast summer weather, all around peacefulness, and, of course, the warm lobster rolls—it’s a nostalgic feeling that can’t be beat.
Photo by Elizabeth Pishal/Dupe
But you know what can be beat? A cold, wet bun, full of a crustacean that you paid top dollar for (lobster can get quite pricey!). Oh, and you can’t even taste the lobster because it’s overpowered by a thick, oily condiment. I’m looking at you mayonnaise. If lobster is already naturally sweeter and tastier, why are we hiding it with a jar full of mayonnaise? It’s meant to be enjoyed straight away, lending to the sweetness of the lobster but the saltiness of the butter. The slight crunchiness of the bun from being tossed on a skillet adds just enough texture that it enhances the roll, making sure that butter is being tasted in every bite. Throwing the extra juices from the pan onto the lobster roll after tossing it in butter allows a natural enhancement — not the manufactured kind.
I’m not saying that it’s wrong to enjoy a cold, mayonnaise-filled lobster roll. However, as a food journalist and self-proclaimed foodie, I am hitching my wagon to the idea that a buttered roll is the tastier option. Every. Single. Time.
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Header photo by Maria Barbieri/Dupe
